“Rarely Does a Vintage Produce Truly Great Wines…1975 Is Such a Vintage”

The 1975 vintage for Bordeaux has arrived with the usual fanfare. Do the widely touted claims such as “vintage of the century,” “the best since 1961,” “as good as 1961,” etc., have validity? The fact is, there are only a handful of wines that deserve such exalted praise. But, oh what wines they are! Some of the finest wines the current wine drinking generation has experienced at so early an age are from 1975. Beyond this, there are another handful of excellent wines, a great number of very good wines, and only a few mediocre wines. Overall, it is a very good vintage that should rank at least as good as 1966 and 1970, but not up to the exalted level of the superlative 1961 vintage.

Many wine drinkers fret they did not purchase enough 1975s when prices were low. Perhaps, but the few remaining 1970s and 1966s have been, on balance, better buys over the last several months. Those who haven’t purchased as many 1975s as they would like, can now selectively do so whenever favorite wines turn up at reasonable prices. While certain wines like the 1975 Petrus and 1975 Lafite have shot up to an almost unbelievable $1,000 per case, wines such as Calon Segur, Leoville Las Cases, and Pichon Lalande can still be found for $200 per case or so, and Palmer and La Mission Haut Brion have recently sold in the vicinity of $300 per case. These latter wines are the ones which should be acquired. Mouton, Latour, Haut Brion and Cheval Blanc have also gotten very expensive, commanding prices of $400–600 per case. However, excellent wines such as Trotanoy, Gruaud Larose, Leoville Las Cases, Montrose and Pichon Lalande sell for $130–200 per case. Most other non-first growths likewise sell generally under $200 per case, with some in the $100–150 range. Carefully selected, these too can be good buys at the lower price range. Don’t be fooled. Consumers make prices. If they don’t buy, sooner or later the wholesalers and distributors will sell at prices designed more to move inventory than to create cocktail conversation. Most of the time there is little price differentiation between similarly classed wines, even though some are significantly better (e.g. Leoville Las Cases is a standout among second growths). Finally, all the 1975s have not been sold to Belgium, Switzerland, Japan, Saudi Arabia, Israel, South Africa, or wherever. Be patient. If temporarily unavailable, most of the 1975s will again turn up. Here then is a shopping list.

Outstanding

La Mission Haut Brion. Although it is a difficult choice, this wine has to be voted THE wine of the vintage. Without question, the finest La Mission since the incredible 1947. This is no faint praise considering the outstanding success of this property in 1970, 1966, 1961, 1959, 1955, 1953, 1952, 1949 and 1948, plus notable successes in other lesser vintages. It could very well go on to rival the legendary 1929 making it one of the top three La Missions of this century! O.K. What’s so great about this wine? Everything! The color is a very dark purple/black, the nose is intensely perfumed with a beautiful, rich ripe fruit smell overlaid with hints of vanilla and spice. In the mouth it is rich, complex, and round with superlative tannin/acid balance, and finishes with a lasting sweet flavor despite the tannin. A superlative wine that will not approach maturity until the turn of the century. In a word, the wine is delicious. In two words, it is absolute perfection. In three words….This could go on and on. Don’t miss this one (19½)!!!

Palmer. Again, a superlative wine from a property consistently making superior wine. The 1975 Palmer certainly will rival the other two great Palmers of this century, 1928 and 1961. Like the other two great vintages, it is not what might be considered a typical Margaux. It is too big, too rich, and too tannic for a Margaux, but it is magnificent. The wine is very dark with a huge, intense fruity nose that is unbelievably complex with hints of toffee, chocolate, vanilla and cassis. The taste is very rich and concentrated, reminiscent of the 1961 with the very pronounced flavor of ripe plums. At this youthful stage, the wine is very tannic, but all elements of the wine are harmonious promising great elegance in the 20 or so years it will take this wine to mature (19).

Calon Segur. Calon Segur is another property that has made a 1975 to rival the best wines it has produced this century. The 1975 is on a par with the 1959 and 1953 and perhaps as good as the magnificent 1949. The wine has a dark color, an intense fruity/perfumed nose, and delicious flavor. It has the sweetness of very ripe fruit and is perfectly balanced in acid and tannin, which should bring the wine to maturity in 10-15 years, although it will undoubtedly hold for decades. Calon Segur can be one of the longest lived of all Bordeaux, and this wine is not to be missed (18½).

Lafite Rothschild. With the 1975, it is a pleasure to welcome Lafite back to its rightful position representing the quintessence of elegant claret. The 1975 has the depth of flavor and the structure that recent vintages have lacked. It is, arguably, the finest Lafite since the spectacular 1959. The wine has a medium dark color, the nose is unbelievably perfumed, like candy, and, in the mouth, it is sweet and rich with a lingering finish, great depth of flavor and perfect balance. A fantastic wine that should be at its best in 10-12 years (18½).

Latour. This is the first time in recent memory that Latour would not be the most concentrated wine of the vintage. This was true in 1971, 1970, 1966, 1964, 1962, 1961, 1959, etc. Actually, the 1975 Latour is really a marvelous wine, but it in no way rivals the great classic Latours such as 1961, 1945 and 1929. Even so, it is a very fine wine with a very dark color, and a locked-up nose only hinting at cedary nuances. The wine has very good fruit and flavor and is tannic, but not impossibly so. It might be similar to the 1955 and should take about 15 years to reach maturity (18).

Leoville Las Cases. In recent vintages this Chateau has made some spectacular wine. It is consistently one of the best values on the Bordeaux market. The 1975 is on a par with the 1961, the finest post-war Leoville. The color is very dark, almost black, but the nose is still closed-in, offering only a hint of the magnificent cedary perfume that will develop with bottle age. The flavor is rich and concentrated with good tannin and acid balance and a delicious, sweet taste that lingers on and on. This may take 15 years or more to fully develop, but, oh what a wine it will be (18).

Petrus. Without question, the 1975 Petrus is great wine. The question is how great and at what cost? Petrus now commands the highest price of all Bordeaux wines. Part of this reflects quality, but a greater factor is scarcity, since Petrus will produce only a fraction of the wine of, say, Lafite in a particular year. Like the Lafite, it has ultimate snob appeal, making it THE wine for rock stars and the like. It’s probably too good for them, but where Petrus is concerned lesser mortals will simply pay more or drink less. The 1975 Petrus has a dark color and the intense, opulent, Oriental spice nose that is almost unique. The flavor is rich with great depth, and the softness makes it attractive at an early age. It is a bigger wine than the 1970, although less concentrated than the 1971. Although Christian Moueix is reported to have called this the best Petrus since 1947, the 1961 and 1971 will likely prove better in the long run. Nonetheless, the 1975 is a superb wine (18).

Pichon Lalande. Pichon Lalande might be referred to as the poor man’s Lafite. In recent years, the resemblance is uncanny. Reportedly, both Pichon Lalande and Lafite have new winemakers, but twins? The 1975 Pichon Lalande is particularly close to Lafite in style – dark color, perfumed fragrant nose, with a good flavor; soft and elegant, yet possessing the fruit, acid and tannin to age for the 10 years or so it will take for the wine to reach maturity. Not quite the depth of flavor of Lafite, and perhaps just a shade less balanced, Pichon Lalande must be considered a best buy, considering the price differential – Lafite is approximately three times the price (18).

Very Good

Latour Haut Brion. This is the “second wine” of La Mission. In 1975, being “second” to the fabulous La Mission is deserving of high marks indeed. The color is very, very dark (almost black). The nose is intensely perfumed, not as complex as the La Mission and with a more pronounced Graves character. At this stage, the wine is very tannic and very powerful, even more so than La Mission. Underlying the massive, tannic structure, the fruit is obscured, yet the youthful flavor seems suggestive of a great future. Definitely, this is a wine to lay away for several decades. In time, the wine could be a masterpiece (17½).

Trotanoy. Trotanoy is to Petrus what Pichon Lalande is to Lafite. That is to say, it is consistently a marvelous wine of great breed. The 1975 is no exception. It has a medium dark color, a perfumed, candy-like nose, with a soft, gentle, flowing style, exhibiting great fruit and a lasting finish. The 1975 is similar in style to the 1971, but much better. It lacks the concentration of the classic 1970 and should be ready relatively soon, perhaps 6-7 years (17½).

Cheval Blanc. Cheval Blanc is vintage after vintage the class of the St. Emilions. Ausone’s reputed comeback still leaves something to be desired, although the 1975 is again reported to be first rate. It will have to be tasted to be believed. The 1975 Cheval Blanc, like Petrus, does not have intensity of the 1971, and stylistically resembles the 1970 though perhaps a bit richer. It has a dark color with a good fruity nose and good fruit, flavor and balance. A classy wine that should drink very well in about 10 years, but is not likely to be remembered as a classic Cheval, vis a vis the 1947 (17),

Gruaud Larose. This Chateau has produced one of the finest St. Juliens in each good vintage since 1959. The 1975 is true to form and it took a superlative effort from Leoville Las Cases to surpass it. The wine has a very dark color and an intense blackcurrant nose. It is rich, fruity, well-structured and tannic. The wine is destined for long life and should peak in about 15 years (17).

Haut Brion. Alas, poor Haut Brion. The Chateau has produced a really good 1975, only to be outclassed by the upstart across the road. As a matter of fact, except for 1959, such has been the case for the past several decades; yet Haut Brion produces consistently fine wine that is less rich, less concentrated, often less balanced (tending to be too acidic in such years as 1949), and generally shorter lived than La Mission. The 1975 is true to form. The wine has a medium dark color and a very attractive fruity nose. In the mouth the earthy taste of Graves dominates the good fruit flavors. It is balanced and finishes well. A very appealing wine that should be ready relatively soon, say 8-10 years (17).

Montrose. This Chateau consistently produces one of the biggest, most concentrated, longest lived of all Medoc wines. Undoubtedly, this 1975 will take 15-20 years to come around as well, but it does not seem as concentrated or tannic as other great Montroses, such as the 1970 or 1961. It also lacks the intensity of the latter wines, but is still relatively big for a 1975. The wine has a dark color and an intense fruity nose that is unusual for a young Montrose. It is a big, fat wine, with good fruit and flavor (17).

Mouton Rothschild. The 1975 Mouton is an enigma. The question is whether there is enough fruit to outlive the hard, severe structure of the wine. Probably yes, but the wine’s progress will need to be carefully monitored over the course of the many, many years it will take for the wine to develop. The wine has a good dark color, with the nose very locked-up, and exhibiting only the slightest trace of cedar. In the mouth there seems to be underlying fruit, but the wine is hard and very tannic. At the Chateau this is felt to be a classic Mouton of great proportion. For the moment, they are perhaps the only ones in a position to really know; and realizing how superlative old Moutons can be, let’s hope they’re right (16½).

Ducru Beaucaillou. Ducru is another property making consistently excellent wines. The 1975 is very good indeed. The color is dark and the nose is lovely, deep and perfumed. The structure of the wine is impressive, very full, yet with good acid and tannin and the promise of great elegance. The wine should mature in about 10 years (16).

Duhart Milon Rothschild. This property, under the same ownership and guidance as Lafite, has been improving in recent vintages. The 1975 is the best yet. A marvelous wine with a medium dark color, a huge, scented candy-like nose with just a hint of cedar and good fruit and flavor – Lafite-like color (15½).

Baron Pichon Longueville. The 1975 Baron is true to form, being much bigger and far more backward than neighboring Pichon Lalande. Yet for a Baron Pichon, it’s not impossibly tannic, just very locked-up. With a dark color, a subdued nose, and good fruit, it seems that the underlying cedary complexity is there waiting to unfold with 12-15 years bottle age. Patience is required, but Baron Pichon should turn out just fine and outlive the exquisite Pichon Lalande (15).

Beychevelle. The fourth-growth Beychevelle usually ranks right up there with neighboring second growth St. Juliens – a fact reflected in the price. The 1966 and 1961 are classics. The 1975 Beychevelle is good wine, but, on a relative basis, perhaps not as good as might have been expected. It has medium dark color, with a perfumed vanilla nose. The taste is very fruity with just a hint of herbaceousness, and the wine is quite tannic. Perhaps a few more years bottle age will render the wine more attractive, but given the success of Leoville Las Cases, Gruaud Larose and Ducru, one could easily forgo 1975 Beychevelle (15).

Cantemerle. Cantemerle is one of the more difficult classified growths to come across. It is very popular in Europe and, reportedly, is a favorite wine of Baron Philippe de Rothschild, the owner of Mouton. The wine is usually a lighter style, but can be very long-lived – the 1929, although dried out a bit, is fabulous. The 1975 will require 10-15 years before it reaches maturity. It has a medium dark color, a pleasant fruity nose, and good fruit and an engaging flavor. At this point it’s quite acidic, but this should be resolved over time (15).

Latour-Pomerol. The 1975 Latour-Pomerol lacks the concentration of the fantastic 1970 which is one of the top two or three Pomerols of a great vintage. It has a medium garnet color, an intense fruity nose, and plum-like flavors, without great intensity. It is velvety and nicely balanced. The wine is easy to drink and doesn’t require prolonged aging, although it undoubtedly will keep for an extended period (15).

Le Gay. Few Pomerols are underpriced these days, but this is one of the better values. Under the direction of Christian Moueix of Petrus and Trotanoy fame, Le Gay has been producing very good wine recently. Like most Pomerols, the 1975 is not as good as the 1970, lacking the concentration and depth of flavor. Yet it is very appealing, with a medium dark color and a perfumed candy-like nose. The flavor is good with medium body, good fruit and nice balance. This should mature early, say 5-6 years (15).

Good

Clerc Milon. Purchased by Baron Philippe de Rothschild in 1970, this fifth growth vineyard adjoins Lafite and Mouton. The 1975 is a substantial wine with a dark color, a deep, rich flavor and lots of tannin. The nose is just a bit musty, still this should prove to be a good bottle (14½).

Gloria. One cannot help but like “good old Gloria.” For year after year this Bourgeois Growth makes wine on a quality level with many classified growths. The 1975 has a dark color, a nice perfumed nose, and is rich with good flavor – not particularly distinctive, but a good wine (14½).

La Tour du Pin Figeac. Surprise! Here’s a Grand Cru St. Emilion (isn’t everything in St. Emilion a Grand Cru?) that has some style and breed. It has dark color, a beautiful perfumed nose, good fruit and flavor and substantial tannin for aging. This wine should be at its best in 6-7 years and has been attractively priced at $5 – 6 per bottle (14½).

Leoville Poyferre. Post World War II wines from this Chateau have been generally disappointing. In the context of the greatness of Leoville Las Cases, this statement can again be made in 1975. Nevertheless, 1975 Leoville Poyferre is a dark, substantial wine that is flawed by a hint of sulphur. The wine is fat and is vaguely reminiscent of California Cabernet with a very fruity/oaky nose (14½).

Mouton Baronne Philippe. This Chateau, owned by Baron Philippe de Rothschild, was recently renamed from Baron Philippe to honor the Baron’s late wife. The 1975 is not as big a wine as its fifth growth brother, Clerc Milon, but is perhaps better balanced. The wine has a medium color, a nice fruity nose and has good flavor, tannin and acid. This will make a good bottle in 8-10 years (14½).

Nenin. One of the better known Pomerols, Nenin seldom makes fabulous wine. The 1975 is quite good with a dark color, beautiful cedar nose and good fruit. It is a hard wine that is locked-up, exhibiting a flat, tannic quality that should be resolved with time (14½).

Cos d’Estournel. This well known second growth St. Estephe makes consistently good, sound wines. Without the particular style of Calon Segur and lacking the power of Montrose, in recent vintages Cos d’Estournel sometimes comes up short as compared to its peers. So it is in 1975. The wine has a dark color, a deep fruity nose that promises more than the wine delivers. In the mouth it is flavorful with good tannin and acid, but lacks distinction, being hard and a bit flat. Even so in 10-15 years this will be a good bottle (14).

Leoville Barton. This is the lightest of the three Leovilles. It is not disagreeable; there just isn’t much in it. A medium red color and fruity nose is followed by a pleasant fruity one-dimensional flavor. This another easy to drink, early maturing wine (14).

Lynch Bages. Lynch Bages is another Chateau that produces outstanding wines year after year. The 1970 is fabulous – one of the very best wines of the vintage. Likewise the 1961, 1959, 1955 and 1953 are magnificent. The 1975, unfortunately, isn’t in this league. The wine has a medium color, a nice fruity nose and good flavor, but it’s one-dimensional and undistinguished (14).

Malescot-St-Exupery. Malescot is usually a substantial, firm wine. It is among the longest lived of all Margaux wines. The 1975 seems a bit more feminine than some recent vintages. It has a medium color, a nice, deep fruity nose and is soft and round with good flavor and balance. It should make pleasant drinking in 8-10 years (14).

Talbot. Talbot generally is a very reliable wine, yet seldom really exciting. The 1975 is outdistanced by several other St. Juliens, yet it undoubtedly will turn out very well. The wine has a medium dark color and a fruity nose. It has good fruit and flavor, but is hard and lacks the style and definition that are so often present in great St. Juliens (14).

Cantenac-Brown. In recent vintages this third growth Margaux has produced sound wine. The 1975 has a medium color and a fruity nose. It is light in body with adequate flavor, but a bit dry and tannic and lacking in fruit. It should be ready in 8-9 years (13).

La Lagune. When La Lagune makes a wine of concentration, it can be superb. The 1961 is such a wine. The 1975 lacks this richness. It has a medium dark color, an unusual spice-like nose, with a fruity flavor backed by some tannin. It should develop in 6-7 years (13).

Pape Clement. The 1975 Pape Clement is a curious wine. Usually an elegant flavorful wine, this wine has an unusual musty nose. The flavor is unmistakably Graves, but the taste leaves a soft impression on the palate, followed by lots of tannin. It will require quite a bit of aging, but isn’t likely to develop as well as might be expected of such a highly-ranked property (12).

Below Average wines include Brane Cantenac and Lafleur.

Drinking the 1975s will indeed be a pleasure for many, many years. The reputation of the vintage will be carried by those properties that made wine to rival the greats of the century, La Mission, Palmer, Calon Segur and Lafite promise to be such wines. Close behind, Latour, Leoville Las Cases, Petrus and Pichon Lalande are also wines of great distinction. As association with 1947 immediately comes to mind where Cheval Blanc, Petrus, la Mission and Mouton made classic wines, while most others never approached these exalted levels the final judgment on the vintage, rarely does a vintage produce truly great wines. Let it be said that the 1975 is such a vintage.