“The Ugly Duckling Transformation Begins”

In recent years much has been said about the great potential of California Pinot Noir. Unfortunately, saying and doing remain two distinctly different things. However, looking at today’s escalating Burgundy prices, even those who have only remote affection for the “noble” grape can certainly hope this potential will be realized.

Pioneering efforts by such wineries as BV, Hanzell, and even Martin Ray, met many challenges and only a few successes. Yet a few of the successes were notable (particularly the great 1946 BV), and in the mid-1960s Chalone began the quest to produce great Pinot Noir. The 1969 is a very fine example. This was followed by a good 1973 and a fair 1974. Unfortunately, during the late 1960s and early 1970s BV and Hanzell did not fare as well. The 1968 vintage was probably the best for both and even these were good, rather than spectacular.

A few years ago, spurred by the explosion of interest of wine in general, and California wine in particular, a proliferation of new Pinot Noirs began to appear. Some of the increased Pinot Noir production was by large wineries who apparently felt consumer recognition of the Pinot Noir name would be enough to sell a dull, insipid wine. As more and more of this abominable product were produced, critics increasingly decried the plight of the lowly Pinot Noir. Meanwhile, a small group of dedicated, perhaps even masochistic, souls set about to prove the critics wrong.

Joseph Swan Vineyards and ZD were two of the first of this new wave of producers. Joe Swan concentrated on big, black high alcohol wine made from Sonoma grapes in extremely small quantities. The wines were unlike the conventional California Pinot Noir and received widespread acclaim. Likewise, ZD joined BV and others in making Pinot Noir from grapes grown in the Carneros District of Napa Valley. Again, the emphasis was on a big, rich style Pinot Noir made in relatively small quantities. Despite some early vinification problems, small quantities of some good wines were made, the best of which was probably the Corti Brothers single cask selection of ZD’s 1974 St. Clair Vineyards Pinot Noir. Mt. Eden Vineyards also received a lot of notoriety with their Pinot Noirs, particularly the 1973 and 1974. However, the wines are hard, tannic, stemmy and woody. The potential is there and, hopefully, better offerings will be forthcoming. Thus, a swan song was averted and the launching of Pinot Noir’s ugly duckling transformation began. Although it is yet premature to declare the operation a success, many good Pinot Noirs are being produced. In fact, with all due respect to our Burgundian friends, some are scandalously good. Selected examples of each vintage from 1975 through 1977 are reviewed below.

1975

The year 1975 has received acclaim for Pinot Noir principally as a result of the debut of offerings from two new wineries – Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard and Hoffman Mountain Ranch.

Outstanding

Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard. This winery premiered with a Pinot Noir ranking among the best California has produced. Unfortunately, few will ever taste the 1975 Pinot Noir, since under 100 cases were produced from mountain vineyards originally planted by Dr. David Bruce. Released at $12, the wine was sold almost exclusively from the winery and was virtually sold out before release. There were actually two lots produced, one aged in American Oak, the other in French Limousin Oak (a fact that will be up to your palate to discern since the different lots are not designated on the label). The wine aged in American Oak has a very dark color, a complex/minty nose, and possesses tremendous fruit and flavor. It is tannic, but is balanced with acid and fruit and exhibits a lengthy aftertaste that, amazingly, does not have the hotness that might be expected from a wine with 14½% alcohol. This lot is a really superb Pinot Noir. The lot aged in French Oak is even better. The wine has a very dark color and an intense plum-like nose still showing the youthful aromas of the oak. In the mouth, the wine is very rich, slightly spicy and complex with a full body and lengthy finish. Again, the finish does not have the heat you might expect with the relatively high alcohol. This wine is very much like powerful young Burgundy at this stage and seems destined to improve with five or more year’s bottle age. Some have suggested that it doesn’t taste like California Pinot Noir. Well, perhaps; but few Burgundies taste like Burgundies either. The real, robust Burgundies that occasionally do come along deserve great praise. Likewise for this classic Pinot Noir (18½).

Very Good

Joseph Swan Vineyards. The 1975 Pinot Noir is one of the best this winery has produced. As usual, the wine is very dark, almost black, with an intense berry-like nose further enhanced by a certain amount of volatility. The flavors are rich and the structure of the wine is most impressive with considerable varietal character. A very good wine whose price is academic since what little wine was produced has long since been gobbled up by Joe’s mailing list (17).

Hoffman Mountain Ranch. They have also received widespread acclaim for their 1975 Pinot Noir. Produced from grapes grown in their vineyards in the mountains near Paso Robles, the style is reminiscent of BV Pinot Noir made by Andre Tchelistcheff – not surprising since Andre is employed as consulting enologist. The wine has a medium dark color with a prune-like, dried fruit nose. It is the nose that brings the BV wines of Tchelistcheff immediately to mind. The taste is slightly sweet, with good fruit and balance. About 1,000 cases were produced, but even at the $15 price, the wine is difficult to find (16).

Chalone Vineyard. The 1975 Pinot Noir is one of the winery’s better efforts, surpassing both the 1973 and 1974. The color is medium red with subdued fruity Pinot Noir nose overlaid by the oak. It’s not a big wine, but displays varietal character with good fruit and flavor in a soft, delicate style. Priced at $13.50, the wine is difficult to find (16).

1976

The year 1976 can be considered a very good year for Pinot Noir, particularly in the Napa Valley. Due largely to climatic conditions, there are some notable successes (Carneros Creek) and, unfortunately, some notable failures (Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard will have no 1976 Pinot Noir).

Outstanding

Carneros Creek. Made from 100% Pinot Noir grapes grown in the Carneros district of Napa Valley, this wine displays fantastic varietal character and is destined to become a classic Napa Valley Pinot Noir. The wine exhibits a beautiful dark garnet color, a very perfumed spicy/vanilla nose, good fruit with a rich, fresh prune-like quality and very good depth of flavor. It is rich and expansive on the palate and is well balanced in tannin and acid with the youthful tannin leaving a trace of bitterness in the aftertaste. This wine promises to be a real keeper and may need 10 years to reach its full potential. Only a small quantity of the wine was made, and it will be difficult to find at this date. Nonetheless, it is worth a diligent search. Pinot Noir like this doesn’t come along too often, and at the $10 release price, it is an excellent value (18).

Very Good

Villa Mt. Eden. This wine is made from 100% Pinot Noir grapes grown on the estate in the heart of the Napa Valley. How this property can produce such consistently high quality Cabernet, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, not to mention a few other varietals, is a constant amazement. It’s not unusual for a large number of varieties to be planted together in a California vineyard (in fact, defying logic, it is the rule rather than the exception). However, it is unusual for so many of them to be so good so much of the time as is the case with Villa Mt. Eden – especially considering the young age of the vines. At any rate, this Pinot Noir is absolutely stunning. The beautiful dark color and complex fruity/spicy nose is followed on the palate by great texture and softness with firm acidity and tannin to give structure. The flavor is again complex with a plum-like character and a very lengthy palate impression. This wine should prove ready to drink earlier than the Carneros Creek (perhaps five years), and will prove a memorable experience. Produced in small quantity and price at about $9, it’s worth seeking out (17).

Caymus. Caymus is another Napa Valley property that is producing a wide range of consistently superb wines from grapes grown on their estate, only a stone’s throw from Villa Mt. Eden. The 1976 Pinot Noir is a substantial wine exhibiting a medium color, an oaky/vanilla nose, and has very good fruit and nice balance. There is perhaps a bit too much oak, but the fruit makes the wine very attractive. A good value at about $7 (15½).

Hoffman Mountain Ranch. This family-owned winery near Paso Robles has followed the good 1975 with a 1976 that is very pleasing. The dried fruit quality of the 1975 is not present in the 1976. The 1976 also doesn’t have the sweetness of the 1975. Rather it has a medium red color, a nice, clean fruity nose and exhibits good fruit and a nice oak balance. The chief attributes of the wine are the fruitiness and honest Pinot Noir flavors. It’s not a big wine, but is stylistically similar to a good Volnay. The wine is not yet released, but if not too expensive is worth trying (15).

Good

Tulocay. Tulocay is one of the tiny new wineries that seem to be springing up all over California. The 1976 Pinot Noir is a successful wine, and the attempt at making a Burgundian style is very evident. Made from Pinot Noir grapes grown in the Carneros region of the Napa Valley, it is a lighter style wine with good varietal character. The color is medium red, and the fruitiness in the nose shows a significant degree of volatility. It has good fruit and exhibits a spicy, Burgundy-like flavor with a slightly sweet/sour sensation on the palate. Although less oaky, this wine is reminiscent of some of the earlier ZD Pinot Noirs. At the $7.50 price, it is worth trying and enjoying for the honest Pinot Noir flavors (14½).

Burgess “Winery Lake Vineyards.” Another wine made from Carneros grapes, this one exhibits a dried fruit nose, and good fruit flavors, but lacks style and concentration (14). It is nonetheless, much better than the “Draper Vineyard” bottling, which suffers from an overabundance of oak (12).

ZD St. Clair Vineyards. This is another of the Carneros Pinot Noirs. It shows a dark color, a woody/raspberry-like nose, and is very full bodied with lots of fruit and oak. There is a massive amount of tannin and the wine finishes hot. The wine is really overpowering and the oak dominates. If it ever comes around, it will take many years. It may be an interesting cellar curiosity, but at about $9.50 it’s a gamble (14).

OTHER WINES INCLUDED

BV, Gundlach Bundschu, Chalone, Sanford & Benedict, Robert Mondavi, Sonoma Vineyards

All scored 12 or 13

1977

In 1977 there will be some stunning successes! While very few have been released yet, early tastings of several promise to make 1977 one of the best years ever for Pinot Noir in California.

Outstanding

Chalone Vineyards. Here Chalone has produced a wine that promises to be the best this property has produced, surpassing the legendary 1969. The color is very dark, and the nose shows an overpowering, room-filling, perfume of fruit, oak, and berries with floral overtones. This really has to be experienced to be believed. The taste follows through with great fruit, intensity, and complexity, with a flavor reminiscent of blackberry preserves – INCREDIBLE! The wine is balanced on the palate with good body, tannin and acid. The wine will be a keeper and should be cellared for 5-10 years – a masterpiece (18)!

Very Good

Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard. Ken Burnap might not yet be walking on water after making this marvelous wine, but he certainly has produced a worthy successor to the 1975. The 1977 shows more elegance without the sacrifice in flavor that this often implies. It has a dark color with a spicy-berry nose and great fruit overlaid with a nice balance of complexity from the French oak. A superb wine (17)!

Kenwood Vineyards. Kenwood has from time to time produced very good Pinot Noir. The 1977 Jack London Vineyard Pinot Noir is the best yet. From grapes grown on a non-irrigated hillside vineyard in Glen Ellen, the small crop of only ½ – ¾ tons per acre produced a wine of great intensity. The color is dark red with a most appealing cherry-vanilla nose. The wine has very good fruit and structure with great richness and depth of flavor followed by oak complexities and tannin. It is not particularly Burgundian in style, but is very nice. The wine is expected to be released in September at $10 per bottle (16).

Sanford & Benedict. This is not likely to be everyone’s favorite style of Pinot Noir and, indeed, it is possible that the high alcohol will overpower the wine by the time it is released. However, at this very youthful stage the wine is most impressive. In Santa Barbara County the weather was hot during the growing season and the grapes were very ripe. The resultant wine has a very dark color with a pronounced black cherry nose and alcohol overtones. It is intense, rich, and high in extract – not unlike Petite Sirah, except softer, with a luscious texture and good balance. This is one to try (16).

Chaparral. Here is one of the first 1977 Pinot Noirs to be released. Produced and bottled by Chalone Vineyards from grapes grown in the Edna Valley Vineyard in San Luis Obispo, the wine is definitely in the Chalone style. The color is medium red, with a volatile, intense Burgundian/spice nose. The taste follows through with very rich fruit, nice complexity and an abundance of varietal character. The aftertaste leaves a slight sweet/sour impression and the finish is just a bit hot owing to the high alcohol (13.5%). Chaparral is a private label used by a group of California retailers. About 400 cases are available, and at $8.50 the wine is a fair value (15).

Good

Villa Mt. Eden. Villa Mt. Eden’s 1977 Pinot Noir is another success, although not as concentrated or flavorful as the 1976. It has good medium color, with a spicy Burgundian nose and good fruit and elegance. It is a lighter wine, not dissimilar from a good Beaune, and should be released later this year (14½).

Robert Mondavi Winery. While not in the class of the above wines, the 1977 Mondavi promises to be an admirable effort from a relatively large producer. For those who value light, elegant, early to mature wine, this will fill the bill nicely. The color is light red, the nose is very fruity, and the flavor is light with good fruit and a spicy complexity which makes the wine quite attractive (14).

With a very good 1978 vintage from most of California, it seems probable that several more really excellent Pinot Noirs will soon appear. One thing is certain: given the dedication, effort and skill of an increasing number of California winemakers, tasting Pinot Noirs is likely to become an increasingly pleasurable experience. And, yes Virginia, the ugly duckling may yet become a swan.