“The Results Are Quite Startling”

As more and more great young Pinot Noir is made, the inevitable question of aging potential will arise. California Pinot Noirs from the 1940s and early 1950s are great rarities, but they are of more than historical interest. Some are extremely good and, amazingly, show no signs of being in decline, despite some three decades of age. Unlike most modern day Burgundy that is made for early consumption, many Burgundies from the 1940s and early 1950s are also outstanding wines today. If some of California’s best old Pinot Noirs are matched against the wines of a top Burgundy producer like Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, the results are quite startling. The older California wines age as well, if not better than their French counterparts. A recent tasting confirmed earlier tastings of the wines and produced the following results:

Outstanding

1946 BV Pinot Noir. The legendary Pinot Noir of BV, which Andre Tchelistcheff has called the finest he ever made, is indeed worth all the praise. The color is very dark with just the slightest trace of amber around the edge. The nose is really intense with a dried fruit/prune-like quality, not dissimilar from an older BV Private Reserve Cabernet. The taste is very rich and complex with great fruit, a touch of sweetness, and a lingering finish. Having stood the test of time and displaying all the character of great wine, surely this would have to be called the finest mature California Pinot Noir that one could drink. Rarely available, it last sold at the Heublein auction in 1977 for $125 per bottle. Seemingly, the wine still has a long life ahead of it, although it is doubtful that it will improve (18).

1952 Grands Echezeaux (Domaine de la Romanee-Conti). This wine is the definition of what great Burgundy is all about! It is absolutely stunning! Stylistically, it bears no resemblance to the BV, being more elegant and captivating. The color is medium red with a perfumed Oriental spice nose, also exhibiting the unmistakable hint of green olives often found in old Burgundies. A wine of great fruit and impeccable balance, it is very alive, with an exceedingly long, expansive finish. In today’s market the wine could be expected to command a price of about $100 per bottle (18).

Very Good

1942 BV Pinot Noir. Who would think that this wine would challenge the legendary 1946? It does, although not quite as complete or as well balanced. The unmistakable BV prune-like nose is followed by a good flavor of ripe fruit. Not as lingering on the palate and a bit lighter in color than the 1946, it is still a very fine wine after 37 years. In the 1978 Heublein, the wine sold for over $60 per bottle (17).

1951 Martin Ray Pinot Noir. Considering how unusual, and often downright unpleasing, many of the old Martin Ray wines can be, it’s a real thrill to find a good one. Many of the wines may live forever as a result of very high acidity. This 1951 undoubtedly has a long way to go, but there seems to be enough fruit. The wine has a dark color and an absolutely stupendous cocoanut/vanilla nose of great perfume and concentration (a welcome change from the green bean nose of many Martin Ray wines). Yes, it does have high acid, but with amazingly good flavor. Bottled in a champagne bottle, this is certainly one of California’s more esoteric old wines (16).

1943 Romanee-Conti (Domaine de la Romanee-Conti). Some of the wartime, pre-phylloxera Domaine wines can be outstanding. This particular bottle, somewhat ullage, was a tired old soldier, but still possessed style and grace. The wine had a medium brick color with a definite amber edge. The nose was vineyard-like, almost sauerkraut. Definitely past its prime, but still with good fruit, very rich and warm and gentle flavors. The wine has been better than this bottle, but any old bottle can be chancy, particularly at $125 (15½).

1947 Grands Echezeaux (Domaine de la Romanee-Conti). The year 1947 is a highly ranked one from Burgundy. Many bottles are still fabulous today. This was the least pleasing of the three Domaine wines – in decline, but still nice. The color was dark with just a hint of amber at the edge, and the nose had a spicy, vinegar-like character. The taste was very rich, but with a hint of burnt caramel. An elegant wine, but not at its best. If at the top of its form, the wine can be outstanding. Recent asking prices have been near $150 per bottle (15).

Good

1949 Inglenook Pinot Noir. This wine really shouldn’t be expected to be great wine; it never has been. The color of the wine is quite dark, but the nose has an oxidized coffee-bean character. In the mouth it is flat and, although still fruity, is a bit dried out. In short, it’s a sound old wine, but not exciting. In 1978 the wine sold for over $40 at the Heublein auction, more a reflection of scarcity value than anything else (14).

Not Rated

1943 Wente Red Table Wine “Pinot Grape.” This is the kind of thing that turns up in the corner of the cellar once in awhile. No one remembers it, and no one else is likely to have it, (it was, in fact, the last bottle from an old cellar). This wine, with a handwritten label, was made for the consumption of the Wente family and was never sold commercially. The color was an unbelievable purple-black without a trace of orange, amber, or brown; but, oh my, what a foul nose – like the inside of an old mothball-filled trunk! The taste was grapey, but very stale. Interesting only because it serves as an illustration of the folly of trying to judge an old wine by its color!

Many such tastings as this are likely to be done in future years. How will the Pinot Noirs of Chalone, Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard, Swan, etc., hold up against their Burgundian counterparts? Only time will tell, but don’t bet against the results being too dissimilar from those already experienced.