A Guide to Wine, Food & the Good Life
To subscribe and be notified anytime we post a new article, enter your email address in the box below, then click on Subscribe Now.

Underground Wine Line

Similar Articles:

  1. PREVIEW: ALONG THE BUGUNDY TRAIL VINTAGE 2013
  2. CAUTION! WHAT’S IN YOUR WINE?
  3. FOR THE LOVE OF ROSÉS
  4. THE BEST WINERIES IN AMERICA - THE TOP 3 ARE FROM CALIFORNIA'S CENTRAL COAST!
  5. STOP THE PRESSES! THERE IS A NEW SCORING SYSTEM!
  6. WINE WRITING – WHAT IS IT?
  7. POLYESTER WINES
  8. HAPPY NEW YEAR 2014!
  9. THE UNDERGROUND IS BACK!
  10. CALLING TIME OUT
  11. ROSÉ - IT’S TIME HAS COME
  12. ARE NUTRITIONAL LABELS COMING TO ALCOHOLIC DRINKS?
  13. THE BLENDING GAME: ROSÉ & MORE
  14. ATTENTION ALL WINE CONSUMERS: WINE INGREDIENT LABELING IS HERE!
  15. EXCLUSIVE NEWS FLASH!
  16. THE GREATER FOOL?
  17. DOMAINE ALBERT GRIVAULT
  18. TASTING WINE VS. DRINKING WINE - IS THERE A DIFFERENCE?
  19. A PAIR TO DRAW TO & A GUIDE FOR WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN WINES THAT ARE FOOD FRIENDLY, BALANCED, AND CAPABLE OF AGING FOR AN EXTENDED TIME
  20. HAPPY NEW YEAR 2013!
  21. THE UNDERGROUND HISTORY AS WE BRIEFLY LOOK BACK AND THEN CONTINUE TO FOCUS ON THE FUTURE
  22. BYE BYE BIG KAHUNA
  23. A LOOK AT NV CHAMPAGNE – IS IT REALLY DIFFERENT THIS TIME?
  24. FAKE WINES IN CHINA - THE BEAT GOES ON
  25. 2011 BURGUNDY – THE SURPRISE VINTAGE
  26. THE MARRIAGE BLEND
  27. LOOKING FOR OLD WINE WITH IMPECCABLE PROVENANCE?
  28. WINE FRAUD AND A WINE DETECTIVE - THE STORY OF DON CORNWELL
  29. HISTORIC VINEYARD SOCIETY
  30. DON’T GET YOUR KNICKERS IN A TWIST!
  31. THE BLENDING GAME - IS IT TIME FOR THREE BUCK CHUCK?
  32. EVERYTHING YOU HAVE BEEN DYING TO KNOW ABOUT NEWLY RELEASED CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAYS!
  33. COUNTERFEIT WINE AND THE ROLE OF CHINA
  34. THE JUDGMENT OF PRINCETON
  35. WHEN TO TASTE, DRINK, & ENJOY YOUNG WINES & WHAT ABOUT ROSÉ?
  36. THE VINEYARD OR THE WINEMAKING? WHAT REALLY MATTERS?
  37. BLENDING GAME PREVIEW
  38. PREDICTING THE FUTURE!
  39. AMATEUR NIGHT AT THE WINE FOLLIES: THE ANSWER WAS LYING IN PLAIN SIGHT
  40. THE PERFECT WINE?
  41. ATTENTION COSTCO WINE SHOPPERS: WHEN IS A ROSÉ NOT A ROSÉ?
  42. NAPA VALLEY WINES – JUST WHEN I THOUGHT WE HAD SEEN EVERYTHING!
  43. THE WINE FRAUD STORY – THE BEAT GOES ON!
  44. DO WINE AND TOILET PAPER HAVE ANYTHING IN COMMON?
  45. WINE JUSTICE STRIKES!
  46. FOODIES FIGHTING FOR FOIE!
  47. CALLING ALL WINE INVESTORS
  48. ONE WINEDRINKER’S OBSERVATIONS OVER NEARLY 30 YEARS: TWO FACES OF FRAUD? MORE TO COME?
  49. NEWS FLASH -- NEW ALCOHOL WARNING LABELS FOR WINE MAY SOON BE ISSUED!
  50. ROSÉ IS THE PERFECT ANTI WINE
  51. AN ENIGMA WRAPPED IN A RIDDLE – CAN AN UGLY DUCKLING BECOME A SWAN?
  52. STOP THE WINE PRESS! THE FBI HAS MOVED TO STOP WINE FRAUD!
  53. 2004 WHITE BURGUNDIES: PREMOX OR NOT? THE BEAT GOES ON!
  54. GOOD NEWS BAD NEWS
  55. WHAT’S ULLAGE GOT TO DO WITH IT? - THE CURIOUS CASE OF 1928 LA GAFFELIÉRE NAUDES
  56. LIGHTNING STRIKES TWICE!
  57. WINE FRAUD – LIGHTNING STRIKES!
  58. WINE FRAUD – CAVEAT EMPTOR!
  59. BIRDS OF A FEATHER - LAUGHABLE WINE DESCRIPTIONS
  60. TIS THE SEASON!
  61. WHAT’S IN YOUR WINE BOTTLE?
  62. HAPPY NEW YEAR!
  63. A NEW WINE FOR THE HOLIDAYS THAT HAS EVERYONE BUZZED
  64. WHAT IS A WINE CONSUMER TO DO?
  65. IS IT DRINK NOW AND PAY LATER? YOU BET YOUR SWEET BIPPY, BUT BE CAREFUL WHAT YOU WISH FOR!
  66. BE THE MASTER OF YOUR DOMAIN!
  67. TAKE A DIFFERENT VIEW THAT IS EASY ON YOUR PALATE AND ON YOUR WALLET
  68. ALONG THE BURGUNDY TRAIL - OCTOBER 2011
  69. Z IS FOR ZINFANDEL
  70. A NOTE FROM DARRELL CORTI
  71. THE BIRDS ARE STILL FLOCKING – WATCH OUT BELOW!
  72. SOME MORE BIG HOUSE RELATIVES PAY A VISIT TO THE UNDERGROUND
  73. WINE & CLOSURE
  74. YIKES! THE TIDE MAY BE GOING OUT SOON! WHO’S SWIMMING NAKED?
  75. WHAT IS WINE?
  76. HALLELUJAH!
  77. BLENDING GAME -- BLENDING MAN TO THE RESCUE
  78. HEARD ON THE GRAPEVINE
  79. NOW APPEARING AT A STORE NEAR YOU - DON'T CRY FOR ME ARGENTINA STARRING MALBEC & TORRONTES
  80. BLENDING PARTY – A NEW TWIST – FLASH DASH – WHAT'S IN YOUR GLASS?
  81. BBBB TRIBUTE
  82. OMG - IS IT THE END OF THE WORLD OR NOT?
  83. TAKE THE WINE CHALLENGE - BLENDING IS YOUR FRIEND!
  84. THE BORDEAUX ROAD AHEAD - A BUBBLE, A SPEED BUMP, OR BLISS?
  85. HERE AT LAST – BEYOND 100 POINTS – NIRVANA!
  86. BIRDS OF A FEATHER…
  87. FLASH! BIG NUMBERS WINE CRITIC ISSUES REPORT ON 2009 BEAUJOLAIS
  88. SPÄTBURGUNDER – WHAT IS IT?
  89. PINOT GRIS. IT'S FOR ME. DO YOU KNOW PINOT GRIS?
  90. THE BEAT GOES ON AND ON … “SUM YUNG VINE” X 2
  91. AND THE BEAT GOES ON…
  92. 100-POINT WINES – GET ‘EM WHILE YOU CAN!
  93. STORAGE, STORAGE, STORAGE!
  94. HAPPY THANKSGIVING! IT'S TIME TO GIVE THANKS AND ENJOY FOOD AND WINE!
  95. WOW! 2009 RED BURGUNDIES. STAY TUNED!!
  96. TIME TO GET INTO BEAUJOLAIS!
  97. A BARGAIN AT WHAT PRICE?
  98. VINOUS DRIVE-BY -- IT'S THE DRIVE-BY SIP AND SPIT!
  99. WINE TASTING OF THE MILLENNIUM
  100. ANSWER TO WINE TASTING OF THE MILLENNIUM
  101. PAST LETTERS TO THE EDITOR
  102. DEAR SANTA, WE'VE GOT A LITTLE LIST
  103. THE UNDERGROUND IS BACK!
  104. WHY THE “UNDERGROUND” WINELETTER? ARE WE TERRORISTS?

ROSÉ – IT’S TIME HAS COME

John Tilson • 6/26/13        Print This Post Print This PostComment Bookmark and Share

 

glasses of rose

Summer 2013 – Rosé Time

In a recent article in the Napa Register, Underground contributing editor Allen R. Balik wrote about rosé in an article entitled “Rosé – It’s Time Has Come”. The article offers a very good insight as to the history of rosé in the U.S. market and is reprinted below:

Rosé may be the most misunderstood and underappreciated category on restaurant wine lists and retail shelves. Even today, most people think of rosé as a simple inexpensive (i.e. cheap) sweet wine. Nothing could be further from the truth, and with summer approaching, now is the time to discover these treasures.

Despite a tarnished image, dry rosé is rapidly gaining in popularity and today represents one of the fastest growing segments in the market although against a relatively small base. It is seen by many avid consumers and those in the trade as one of the most versatile wines with an affinity for a wide variety of cuisine enjoyed in an abundance of settings.

In the Tavel appellation of France’s Southern Rhone 100 percent of the wine produced is rosé and reputed to have been the favorite wine of kings, Popes, novelists and intellectuals dating many centuries. In Champagne, the rosé offerings usually command top dollar in the portfolios of the most prestigious producers. And throughout most of Europe it is rosé that ushers in the festive summer season.

So how did these stellar wines develop such a negative connotation in the U.S., and was it ever warranted?

In the 1960s, rosé entered the popular U.S. market with sweet slightly sparkling Portuguese imports such as Lancers and Mateus. At that time, Cold Duck also became a “sparkling” success. Then in the late 1970s came the era of white zinfandel to firmly entrench rosé with a far different image than its illustrious European history should have dictated.

Because these rosés were really only rosé in color the trade began to refer to the wines as “blush” and they continued to appeal to the American consumers’ taste for often insipid sweet wines. Only recently did dry rosé gain a foothold in the market and is now dramatically changing America’s perception.

Rosé is a stalwart of the old world (aka Europe), and is produced in virtually all wine growing countries. It is typically made in the traditional method of allowing fermentation of red berries to proceed for a short period of time on the skins to extract some color. The juice is then taken off the skins and fermentation continues as with a white wine.

Another method of production more common to the U.S. is saignée where a portion of the juice of fermenting red wine is bled off during the early stages and continues fermentation on its own. Saignée also serves to concentrate the fermenting red wine by deepening its color and extraction.

A third method (not permitted in the EU except for Champagne) is legal in the U.S. Here, red and white wines are merely blended. In Champagne this usually occurs by adding some still pinot noir just prior to the secondary fermentation (in the bottle) where the bubbles are produced.

The time for dry rosé in the U.S. has truly arrived, and you’ll find a wide variety of styles and varietal compositions from pinot noir to syrah, grenache and more. Each varietal lends its own refreshing bouquet and flavors from raspberry to cherry and strawberry for your summertime pleasure.

Rosé has long been a favorite wine in our household. For decades I have recommended rosés to friends who would at first scoff, only to become major rosé lovers in short order.  I have also written about its virtues as a great accompaniment to food for a very long time and many articles are available on the Underground website. Here is one that speaks to why rosé is so attractive click here.  And, here is the first article on 2012 rosés click here.

Once again confirming the increasing popularity of dry rosé, this report sent out earlier this year by The Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins de Provence (CIVP), known in the United States as the Provence Wine Council, details the growing trend. Take a look:

 Provence Rosé Exports to the U.S.
and Imported Rosé Retail Sales

Each Grow at Double-Digit Rates, Extending Multi-Year Trends
Rosé sales volumes grow at 15 times the rate of total table wines in the U.S. during 2012

(New York, NY, February  19, 2013) – Two reports released in January 2013 confirm that the imported rosé wine category continues to see dynamic growth and rising popularity in the United States. One study measures annual sales of imported rosé at retail, while the other reports on exports of rosé from Provence, France – the world’s rosé capital – to the United States. Viewed together, the numbers tell a story of rosé growth that continues to far outpace the U.S. wine market as a whole.

Provence Rosé Exports Up 41%

Exports of rosé wines from Provence to the U.S. jumped 41% on volume and 43% on value from November 2011 to November 2012, according to the CIVP/Provence Wine Council and the French customs agency. This comes on top of a 62% jump in volume one year ago. Provence rosé exports to the U.S. have grown at double-digit rates each year since 2003 (see chart below).

“Export volumes of Provence rosé to the United States remain at an all-time high,” said Julie Peterson of the CIVP/Provence Wine Council’s U.S. trade office. “This means not only that Provence’s gold standard dry rosé continues to grow in popularity, but also that access to the wines of Provence in the U.S. market is better now than ever.”

Provence, the oldest winegrowing area in France, is the largest wine region specializing in AOC rosé wine worldwide (88% of AOC wines produced here are rosés). Made from red grapes, Provence rosés are crisp and elegant, pairing well with a variety of foods.

Data sources: CIVP and French customs agency

Imported Rosé Sales Volumes Grow by 28%

The French export data is reinforced by retail sales data released by research firm Nielsen. U.S. retail sales of imported rosé wines priced at or above $12 a bottle grew by 28% on volume and 23% on dollars in 2012. This is compared to 1.8% on volume and 4.8% on dollars for total U.S. retail table wine sales, giving premium imported rosés a growth rate more than 15 times that of total table wine sales, on volume.

Premium imported rosé sales have grown at double-digit rates in the U.S. for at least eight years – as long as Nielsen has been tracking this as a separate segment at retail.

The Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins de Provence (CIVP), known in the United States as the Provence Wine Council, is an organization representing more than 600 wine producers and 40 trade companies from the Provence region of France. Its mission is to promote and advance the wines of the region’s principal appellations. The organization’s members together produce 96 percent of Provence’s Appellation d’Origine Controlee (AOC) wines. More information can be found online at www.winesofprovence.com or www.facebook.com/winesofprovence or http://twitter.com/winesofprovence.

 

Media Contacts   
Joan Brower/Janet Bartucci
The Dilenschneider Group, Inc.
MetLife Building, 200 Park Avenue, 26th Floor
New York, NY 10166
Tel.: 212-922-0900; Fax: 212-922-0971
media@winesofprovence.com
Trade Contacts
Julie Peterson/Carlene Hastings
Vins de ProvenceU.S. Office
1025 Thomas Jefferson St. NW, Suite 420 East
Washington, DC 20007
Tel: 202-499-4263
chastings@winesofprovence.com

 

So it seems that a lot of wine drinkers are getting into rosé. If you haven’t tried rosé, now is the time. The 2012s have arrived and they are delicious. This is yet another confirmation of what I have always said: For the many years that I have been drinking rosés, there has never been a vintage that did not produce an abundance of delicious wines. The Underground will have more notes and commentary on 2012 rosé  very soon. Stay tuned to the Underground and treat yourself to some delicious 2012 rosés! It’s a win/win!!

 

In Vino Veritas,Sig

John Tilson

Post a Comment

3 comments for “ROSÉ – IT’S TIME HAS COME”

  1. Thank you for your WINELETTER.
    No doubt…ROSÉ – IT’S TIME TO HAVE A GLASS!
    ROSÉ – ITS TIME HAS COME!

    Kind regards
    Paul

    Posted by Paul Schüpbach | June 27, 2013, 7:02 am
  2. Thanks Paul!
    Indeed it is time for rosé! And time to raise our glasses to the greatest summer wine of all! Check out the new Underground article for some ideas!!
    In Vino Veritas,
    John

    Posted by John Tilson | July 3, 2013, 10:21 pm
  3. Thanks Charlie,
    Sorry you didn’t choose a few from the article. That way you can tell how your taste matches with mine and then make your own decisions. I do not know the Tavel you mention. The Tavels I wrote about are ones that I have known for a long time and drink regularly. You should also know that Tavels are different than many other roses in that they are full of forward fruit and are very round. They are amongst the more robust rosés. So if you have never had a Tavel before you need to try a few. Happy tasting!
    In Vino Veritas,
    John

    Posted by John Tilson | July 12, 2013, 3:16 pm

Post a Comment