Thoughts On Provenance

Reading John Tilson’s notes on the Old Burgundians’ tastings makes one appreciate provenance. I think that when it comes to appreciating Burgundy, New Yorkers and much of the Eastern wine drinking public came late to the party when it came to appreciating wines from the Cote. New York, like Paris, has always been a Bordeaux town.

Retrospective Review: Volume 1, Number 6 (June-July, 1980)

With Volume I, Number 6 in June-July 1980, we ended our first year of publication. My lead editorial was a glimpse of things to come and was titled “It’s Our Anniversary! But The Best Is Yet To Come!” In it I talked about the launch of our barrels and bottles feature which would review wines in barrel and bottle before they were released for sale. The idea which was to prove to be the wave of the future was “to evaluate some of the best wines before they begin their way through the retail trade.” I stated our intention to focus on fine wines exclusively – Chardonnay, Cabernet both old and new and other California wines such as Pinot Noir, Zinfandel and Gewurztraminer, and also Vintage Ports. And French wines, 1978 Burgundies, 1978 Bordeaux and Sauternes, plus older Bordeaux vintage reviews 1970, 1966, 1961, 1928 and 1929 and a review of Chateau Petrus from 1920-1976. These reviews of older vintages were timely because the older wines were readily available at auctions in England and then through wine merchants in Europe and the U.S. And, it is important to remember, that this was before the plague of wine fraud was to rear its ugly head!

Dom Pérignon in the Napa Valley

Monday evening, an intimate affair was hosted at a private residence in the Napa Valley to celebrate the wines of Dom Pérignon, while offering a rare insight of upcoming releases for 2010. This is part of a subtle global effort to selectively feature some exclusive offerings—yet to be released—including the Dom Pérignon 2002 vintage (set to release this fall), Dom Pérignon Œnothèque from the 1996 and 1969 vintages and, not lastly, the launch of Dom Pérignon Rosé Œnothèque.

Ah, Spring, The Vintage of the Century Is In the Air!

Ah, Spring, The Vintage of the Century Is In the Air!

Last November when we were in Burgundy, we were impressed with the 2008 red wines. They showed better balance and richness than the 2007s tasted from barrel (our review will follow shortly – stay tuned). But nearly everywhere we went, when tasting any 2008s and expressing a positive opinion, the reaction was “just wait for the 2009s.” Later, this year we will go back to Burgundy and taste some of the 2009s. But even without tasting the wines, it seems obvious that given the quality of the harvest, that there will be many lush and concentrated Burgundies of great appeal. And, more recently, at the opening tastings of the 2009 Bordeaux, the cry is echoed. Here are just a few of the early proclamations: “2005 a great vintage or better,” “the best young vintage I have ever tasted,” “Best wines ever.” So it looks like we are in for another “Vintage of the Century.” Again? OK. In my 40 years of tasting wines, I have only heard this about 10 times. Wow! I am not that old!!

Retrospective Review: Volume I, Number 2 (October-November 1979)

California Chardonnay

After taking California Pinot Noir in our first issue, we turned to California Chardonnay as the focus of our second issue. But, unlike Pinot Noir, Chardonnay was already wildly popular as a generally fruity, oaky, easy-to-drink beverage.