A Guide to Wine, Food, Spirits and Good Living

Articles by
John Tilson

John Tilson has written 448 articles

Retrospective Review Volume I, Number 3 (December-January 1979-1980)

In this our third issue, Edward Lazarus kicked off with “Woes of a Burgundy Drinker” speaking to the fact that back then a lot of wine was spoiled by excessive heat either in transit or after arrival when many wines were stored in unrefrigerated warehouses. In Southern California, there are many weeks each year when temperatures range between 80-100 degrees. Northern California is generally cooler, but even so, temperatures can reach the same highs. This is disaster for wine storage – particularly Burgundy. Burgundies, both red and white, are among the wines most sensitive to excessive heat.

And, 30-40 years ago, many, if not most, wine storage facilities used by wholesalers and distributors were not refrigerated. So true to our mission we were straightforward with our call “must consumers deal with spoiled wines as well?” Today things have changed as now wines are transported in a temperature-controlled environment to their destination , which is temperature-controlled as well. We’ve made progress and today, thankfully, spoiled wines are a rarity.

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Ah, Spring, The Vintage of the Century Is In the Air!

Ah, Spring, The Vintage of the Century Is In the Air!

Last November when we were in Burgundy, we were impressed with the 2008 red wines. They showed better balance and richness than the 2007s tasted from barrel (our review will follow shortly – stay tuned). But nearly everywhere we went, when tasting any 2008s and expressing a positive opinion, the reaction was “just wait for the 2009s.” Later, this year we will go back to Burgundy and taste some of the 2009s. But even without tasting the wines, it seems obvious that given the quality of the harvest, that there will be many lush and concentrated Burgundies of great appeal. And, more recently, at the opening tastings of the 2009 Bordeaux, the cry is echoed. Here are just a few of the early proclamations: “2005 a great vintage or better,” “the best young vintage I have ever tasted,” “Best wines ever.” So it looks like we are in for another “Vintage of the Century.” Again? OK. In my 40 years of tasting wines, I have only heard this about 10 times. Wow! I am not that old!!

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WINE TASTING OF THE MILLENNIUM

Over the years, I’ve participated in thousands of wine tastings. I have read about hundreds or thousands more. But there is one that stands out above all the others. It is, without question, the wine tasting of the millennium. The basic idea was to taste the highest scoring wines of all time in one tasting.

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ANSWER TO WINE TASTING OF THE MILLENNIUM

2009 Ponderosino De Pruno”Le Devil’s Belly Hot Flash” Ultra Reserve Selection of Clone Number AZXV23968 from Ancient Pre-Roman Vines April Fool! Now, have a celebration to good taste with your friends and family by matching YOUR favorite wine with YOUR favorite food.

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The Fontainebleau Hotel’s Hakkasan Restaurant in Miami Beach & The World’s Most Unusual Wine List?

On a recent visit to Miami Beach with my wife, Laurie and I visited the newly refurbished Fontainebleau Hotel for the first time in many years. It was nice to see the beautiful hotel and it is definitely worth a visit. The Fontainebleau, a revered Miami Beach landmark for over half a century, widely recognized for its distinctive curvilinear design, completed a $1 billion expansion and renovation the end of 2008. The 1950s era resort has been transformed into one of the country’s most sought-after beachfront resort properties, a blend of Miami’s glamorous golden era and stylish, ultramodern luxury.

For dinner, we chose Hakkasan, one of three, world-class signature dining experiences at the hotel. Opened in early 2009, Hakkasan also has locations in London and Istanbul. The award-winning restaurant was rated by Zagat as Top Newcomer in South Florida in their 2010 survey. Heading up the Miami kitchen is Chef Wen Sian Tan, formerly of My Humble House restaurant in Beijing. Chef Tan offers diners a diverse menu of modern Cantonese cuisine and house specialties reinterpreted for a contemporary palate, with a wide array of wines, sake and cocktails.

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Champagne or No?

On a recent coast to coast airline flight, my food service tray was accompanied by a folded card that said on the front of it “Unmask the truth…” overlaying a bottle labeled “American Champagne.” When I opened the folded card, the message inside read “No more cover-ups” and spoke to the fact that Champagne is only sparkling wine from the Champagne region of France and sparkling wine from other places is not Champagne.

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The Ahwahnee Hotel’s Bracebridge Dinner and Yosemite Valley

Join a 17th Century English Christmas Celebration
If I were to choose my favorite place in the world, I would have to say Yosemite.
The Valley is unique in its grandeur, scope and sheer beauty. Half Dome, El Capitan, Yosemite Falls and Glacier Point simply have to be experienced to be believed.
And within the valley is the grand Ahwahnee Hotel that is perfect in its design which blends rustic beauty with the natural surroundings.

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Confessions of An Addict

Marrying wine with food is the ultimate. Most people enjoy good food. A very small percentage of the population even enjoys fine wine. And, an even smaller percentage has the ability to match great food and great wine. It is an art. Someday we will write on our favorite wine and food combinations. For now, something more suited to every day fare.

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Retrospective Review: Volume I, Number 2 (October-November 1979)

California Chardonnay

After taking California Pinot Noir in our first issue, we turned to California Chardonnay as the focus of our second issue. But, unlike Pinot Noir, Chardonnay was already wildly popular as a generally fruity, oaky, easy-to-drink beverage.

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A Selection from California and France

Two Stunning White Burgundy Producers: I began drinking White Burgundies in the late 1960s as I was beginning my journey down the wine trail. From the very beginning, I was captivated by the flavors and balance of the wines and their ability to pair beautifully with a wide variety of foods.

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